2004 Giacomo Conterno Barbera d’Alba

The Giacomo Conterno estate is known for superb, traditionally made Barolo and Barbera. Roberto Conterno took over from his late father, Giovanni, several years ago and continues to make stunning examples of both wines.

The Barolos are understandably expensive, but the 2004 Barbera d’Alba is a bargain. An inky red-violet in color, it has ripe, lush aromas of blackberries and plums, a velvety texture and soft tannins, along with the acidity to make this wine tremendously food-friendly. It’s a serious wine made from grapes grown on some of the most prized vineyards in the world.

It’s terrific with salumi and grilled sausages, pork chops and barbecue. But it’s just as amenable to bean soups, pasta dishes and lasagna.

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Quick swirl

Region: Piedmont

Price: About $28

Style: Complex and lush

Food it goes with: Salumi, pork chops, pasta

Where you find it: Beverage Warehouse in Marina del Rey, (310) 306-2822; Hi-Time Wine Cellars in Costa Mesa, (949) 650-8463; Woodland Hills Wine Co. in Woodland Hills (818) 222-1111; and other fine wine retailers

--S. Irene Virbila